In my efforts to combat this country's seductive obsession with red meat, I've started imposing a diet on myself. More produce. No more Milanesa (a delicious slab of beef pounded thin, breaded and fried, and then served with mayonnaise). This isn't really that interesting. I just wanted to explain the title...basically, while eating an apple on the bus the other day, I was suddenly struck by how wonderfully natural it is for humans to eat fruit. It's sweet, filling, nutritious, and grows without any human impact. What could be more meant-to-be than than the growing and eating of fruit? And how fortunate are the beings on this earth that apples grow everday, naturally, and with the satisfying taste and necessary nutrients that we need? Apples, in turn, rock.
Anyway, an update on happenings here. I HAVE KEYS!! And, bitch, I've been usin' 'em. (After finishing the first two seasons of "Skins", that is)
On Thursday, I spent the afternoon continually reminded why I wanted to go into television writing (SKINS), and then speed-walked to a nearby park for my daily cardio. Later, I went to an advanced acting class at La Sala Ross, where I've officially become the resident stalker. We had the class in a small rehearsal space, and the group were already a properly formed clique. Luckily, theater games pushed me very quickly into an improvised David Lynch-worthy dance party that had me hip to hip with several classmates. I had a blast, but the class was surprisingly demanding. As we improvised, I found myself continually falling into depressed, isolated characters. Luckily, I pulled out before I totally submerged into the woeful-princess I was becoming. Am I really so angsty? I think it's the recent You Tube-induced seclusion I've found in my room. I didn't realize I was so bad at going idle.
Luckily, activities commenced on Friday. I went to another yoga class, where the tranquil spanish commands and assurances kept getting interrupted by the teacher's constant scoffings at my gnarled poses. Try yoga in Spanish. It's a trip!
After, I went to a rioutous (literally) children's acting class at La Sala Ross. I felt for the teacher, who was easily, bull-dozed over by the 20-something room of screaming girls. We spent most of the class developing improvisations, and I tried to help, but the girls couldn't understand most of what I was saying. It's was very humbling. I guess knowing the words isn't the end of the work.
I closed out the evening over dinner with a cinema studies professor I had met earlier this week. Nice guy. Loves musicals. He also tried to convince me that the dictatorship of the 1970s, and the following "Dirty War" that left hundreds of thousands of people "missing", could actually be seen as a necessary end to keep communism out of the country. "We could have ended up like Cuba," he said. "It's horrible what happened, but the world is only getting half of the story." I don't think that any story could justify denying so many citizens their rights. I also didn't appreciate his scoffing at my emotional reaction to "Moulin Rouge," which he said only used pop music as an "ineffective device" to sell tickets. I don't know how much we'll be hanging out again.
sábado, 4 de abril de 2009
miércoles, 1 de abril de 2009
Two days of establishing myself here
I still don't have keys, nor have I begun my jobs. BUT, I refuse to sit idle. These past two days, I have pushed myself on this city, and I think I'm getting a good response.
Yesterday, I spent the morning watching BBC's mind-blowingly complex/awesome show "Skins" on Youtube. I waited for what seemed to be hours for someone to wake up and open the door to let me out. (pause to acknowlege the waiting............)Finally, I hit up the center to meet up with Eric, the other Fulbrighter aca (here). It was weird being so exposed as American. Together, our growing Argentinean accents faded, and quickly we dissolved into English. Hearing Eric's three simple goals here (none of which really involved much pressure to weave into the workings of the country) made me calm a little in my hurry to become Tucumano. But while Eric looks at this year as a break, I can't help but struggle to cherish every second of this experience.
In the evening, I met up with Paul, a 27-year-old from Seattle who decided to move here to get a Philosophy degree. We bought some beer from a corner store, then popped a squat at a table right in front. (they provided us with plastic cups) In between his gawks at passing women in short skirts, we talked about gender relations in Argentina. He admired what he believed to be an understanding between men and women in this country as a compromise between female empowerment, and machismo. Everyone is very sexual here, and while many girls can be empowered to express their sexuality, men also feel that they have the right to sometimes objectify women. I disagreed with this admiration, and told him that I felt the culture pushed boys and girls to personify roles they might not really embody. The discussion pushed into race relations and feminism. It was frustrating, but fun. I need to be challenged more, I think. Anybody want to debate affirmative action??
After another night and day of "Skins" obsessing, I went to my first yoga class. I was not only the only male, but also the only person under 40. YAY! It was hard translating all the body parts, and also difficult to close my eyes and remain calm when not totally sure what was being said, but I definitely felt calmed. Yoga is...interesting. I think it might be really important. More on this later.
After the body-flexing, I headed to Barrio Norte for an impromptu conversation group with some of the friends of the girl whose apartment I was going to rent. (My English teachers all just had a spasm as that run-on sentence was written) We talked generational differences, and politics in Argentina. They are nervous about the country's socialist-leaning president, and are confounded by how rebellious teenagers have become. I opened up about my sadness for Argentina's striking farmers. We drank Mate (YAY, TRADITIONS!!), and then giggled our way to cerveza. I think i might be making friends!!
And now, more Skins. Is anyone even reading this?
Yesterday, I spent the morning watching BBC's mind-blowingly complex/awesome show "Skins" on Youtube. I waited for what seemed to be hours for someone to wake up and open the door to let me out. (pause to acknowlege the waiting............)Finally, I hit up the center to meet up with Eric, the other Fulbrighter aca (here). It was weird being so exposed as American. Together, our growing Argentinean accents faded, and quickly we dissolved into English. Hearing Eric's three simple goals here (none of which really involved much pressure to weave into the workings of the country) made me calm a little in my hurry to become Tucumano. But while Eric looks at this year as a break, I can't help but struggle to cherish every second of this experience.
In the evening, I met up with Paul, a 27-year-old from Seattle who decided to move here to get a Philosophy degree. We bought some beer from a corner store, then popped a squat at a table right in front. (they provided us with plastic cups) In between his gawks at passing women in short skirts, we talked about gender relations in Argentina. He admired what he believed to be an understanding between men and women in this country as a compromise between female empowerment, and machismo. Everyone is very sexual here, and while many girls can be empowered to express their sexuality, men also feel that they have the right to sometimes objectify women. I disagreed with this admiration, and told him that I felt the culture pushed boys and girls to personify roles they might not really embody. The discussion pushed into race relations and feminism. It was frustrating, but fun. I need to be challenged more, I think. Anybody want to debate affirmative action??
After another night and day of "Skins" obsessing, I went to my first yoga class. I was not only the only male, but also the only person under 40. YAY! It was hard translating all the body parts, and also difficult to close my eyes and remain calm when not totally sure what was being said, but I definitely felt calmed. Yoga is...interesting. I think it might be really important. More on this later.
After the body-flexing, I headed to Barrio Norte for an impromptu conversation group with some of the friends of the girl whose apartment I was going to rent. (My English teachers all just had a spasm as that run-on sentence was written) We talked generational differences, and politics in Argentina. They are nervous about the country's socialist-leaning president, and are confounded by how rebellious teenagers have become. I opened up about my sadness for Argentina's striking farmers. We drank Mate (YAY, TRADITIONS!!), and then giggled our way to cerveza. I think i might be making friends!!
And now, more Skins. Is anyone even reading this?
lunes, 30 de marzo de 2009
The day of the sun's reflection
Everybody ready for the the resume of things I have done today?
Here goes:
1) Finished watching "Girl, Interrupted" while waiting to go the Center
2) Decided with my Canadian housemate to go the center after siesta
3) Watched "Power Rangers" in Spanish, and ate an apple
4)Online nothings
5) Talked with Rosario, the lady who cleans and cooks for us (I know, I'm ashamed), about her extended family, her daughter's struggle to graduate with a broken hand, and her many years of labor on citrus farms in the campo of Tucuman
6) Spent lunch eating delicious chicken, and discussing the guilt/knowledge/enlightenment acquired from meeting people of different classes. I brought up my water-color feelings after spending the afternoon in the Simoca pueblo. Adriana discussed how struck she was by the peace and wisdom she found working with the indigenous peoples in northern Santiago Del Estero. The entire conversation was conducted in English, while Rosario cleared plates and prepared dinner.
7)More Internet nothings (ex: Beyonce performing "Single Ladies" LIVE...what a talent)
8)Went swimming and sunbathed in the backyard, then played with our adorable, fluffy dogs.
Literally seconds ago, I was feeling like this day had been wasted. Now I feel the total opposite. I think I'm learning more than I thought here. How to chill out. How to let time go and relax. It's a different kind of education. I'm not used to it. Now I just have to stop resisting :)
I'm obsesed with this song by the way:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsOIYuocQSM
Here goes:
1) Finished watching "Girl, Interrupted" while waiting to go the Center
2) Decided with my Canadian housemate to go the center after siesta
3) Watched "Power Rangers" in Spanish, and ate an apple
4)Online nothings
5) Talked with Rosario, the lady who cleans and cooks for us (I know, I'm ashamed), about her extended family, her daughter's struggle to graduate with a broken hand, and her many years of labor on citrus farms in the campo of Tucuman
6) Spent lunch eating delicious chicken, and discussing the guilt/knowledge/enlightenment acquired from meeting people of different classes. I brought up my water-color feelings after spending the afternoon in the Simoca pueblo. Adriana discussed how struck she was by the peace and wisdom she found working with the indigenous peoples in northern Santiago Del Estero. The entire conversation was conducted in English, while Rosario cleared plates and prepared dinner.
7)More Internet nothings (ex: Beyonce performing "Single Ladies" LIVE...what a talent)
8)Went swimming and sunbathed in the backyard, then played with our adorable, fluffy dogs.
Literally seconds ago, I was feeling like this day had been wasted. Now I feel the total opposite. I think I'm learning more than I thought here. How to chill out. How to let time go and relax. It's a different kind of education. I'm not used to it. Now I just have to stop resisting :)
I'm obsesed with this song by the way:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsOIYuocQSM
domingo, 29 de marzo de 2009
Decision Day!
Today I made a lot of decisions. Where to live. How to think. How to start my job. How to adjust my attitude to better my experience. What to wear this morning. Making decisions feels good. I should do this more often.
Since we last spoke, I've done a number of lovely things. First, I chatted with the secretary at the Arts school for nearly half an hour about his belief that Argentinean politics has become absurd. I then talked sexual experiences with a group of Interior Design students (the names of most I never caught), before heading to the tropical vacation-world that is Yerba Buena, a suburb of my city. Talk forest-covered mountains along the horizon. Long stretches of grass, thin streets lined with colorful one-story houses, and siesta-absorbed tanners of all ages resting along nearly every lawn. I was invited to the house of my friend Lenny for lunch. Before even taking my first bite of tamale, I was into a deep discussion of the Iranian-American experience. Then Bush politics. Then the Israel/Palestine conflict. There was a pause for some bananas and dulce de leche, but then back into talk of Obama's plans for the U.S. economy. It was awesome. Lenny and I jumped into a pool and talked about how well we fit our signs, and then watched "Love Me If You Dare."
I spent most of the next day wandering the streets after looking at an apartment in the center. It was hot, and I was in a very confused place. (This was before the decisions, remember) I ended up passing out (not literally) in Parque 9 de Julio. I was interrupted by a little boy who offered me a plastic rose. Not having money to spare, and properly New York-trained, I told him to keep the rose and save it for someone else. But he insisted. His name was Felipe, and he proceeded to sit with me and marvel at how strong my glasses were. He muttered some phrases in English, giggled, then asked every detail about how I learned Spanish and ended up in Tucuman. He asked me for money, and I told him I only had enough for the bus. Then he offered me 5 pesos as a gift. I told him to keep it, but offered him a granola bar and water from my bag. He wasn't in love with the granola bar, but he was beyond kind to me. He even gave me a proper Argentinean kiss on the cheek before I left.
I ended the night at a children's theater class at La Sala Ross. Picked me right up. Nothing is more inspiring than watching kids discover how awesome acting is.
Yesterday, I spent the afternoon in the Simoca pueblo with Hanah, my German hostel friend. It was definitely oozing with character, charm, and delicious empanadas; but the excursion also left me feeling very distanced. Have you ever seen a life totally opposite from yours and just felt an almost glass pane between you and that life? Like it's not even real. The poverty at this fair was incredible. But the strong community bond was undeniable. What sticks with me about the people I met at this fair is that they are so fortunate in their inherited culture and strong family, but do they know how many fewer choices they have compared to someone like me? Can you imagine life without the choice to do whatever you loved most? It's not like I saw sadness in people while they sold honey, or chairs made out of cow hide. There just wasn't any acknowledgement that another life exists.
I closed out the day at an adult acting class at La Sala Ross. I learned SO much. Stole every activity of course. And I practically prostituted myself for friends, lol. I think it went well.
Today I went to another asado at the house of my reference's parents. Juan, Adriana's 9-year-old nephew, wowed us with jokes, inspiring me to stumblethrough a translating a knock-knock joke. I spent the rest of the afternoon pushing all of my worries on my sister Sheeva. She helped me, and now I'm feeling less confused, and more thoughtful. I'm in Argentina. For reals. Damn
Since we last spoke, I've done a number of lovely things. First, I chatted with the secretary at the Arts school for nearly half an hour about his belief that Argentinean politics has become absurd. I then talked sexual experiences with a group of Interior Design students (the names of most I never caught), before heading to the tropical vacation-world that is Yerba Buena, a suburb of my city. Talk forest-covered mountains along the horizon. Long stretches of grass, thin streets lined with colorful one-story houses, and siesta-absorbed tanners of all ages resting along nearly every lawn. I was invited to the house of my friend Lenny for lunch. Before even taking my first bite of tamale, I was into a deep discussion of the Iranian-American experience. Then Bush politics. Then the Israel/Palestine conflict. There was a pause for some bananas and dulce de leche, but then back into talk of Obama's plans for the U.S. economy. It was awesome. Lenny and I jumped into a pool and talked about how well we fit our signs, and then watched "Love Me If You Dare."
I spent most of the next day wandering the streets after looking at an apartment in the center. It was hot, and I was in a very confused place. (This was before the decisions, remember) I ended up passing out (not literally) in Parque 9 de Julio. I was interrupted by a little boy who offered me a plastic rose. Not having money to spare, and properly New York-trained, I told him to keep the rose and save it for someone else. But he insisted. His name was Felipe, and he proceeded to sit with me and marvel at how strong my glasses were. He muttered some phrases in English, giggled, then asked every detail about how I learned Spanish and ended up in Tucuman. He asked me for money, and I told him I only had enough for the bus. Then he offered me 5 pesos as a gift. I told him to keep it, but offered him a granola bar and water from my bag. He wasn't in love with the granola bar, but he was beyond kind to me. He even gave me a proper Argentinean kiss on the cheek before I left.
I ended the night at a children's theater class at La Sala Ross. Picked me right up. Nothing is more inspiring than watching kids discover how awesome acting is.
Yesterday, I spent the afternoon in the Simoca pueblo with Hanah, my German hostel friend. It was definitely oozing with character, charm, and delicious empanadas; but the excursion also left me feeling very distanced. Have you ever seen a life totally opposite from yours and just felt an almost glass pane between you and that life? Like it's not even real. The poverty at this fair was incredible. But the strong community bond was undeniable. What sticks with me about the people I met at this fair is that they are so fortunate in their inherited culture and strong family, but do they know how many fewer choices they have compared to someone like me? Can you imagine life without the choice to do whatever you loved most? It's not like I saw sadness in people while they sold honey, or chairs made out of cow hide. There just wasn't any acknowledgement that another life exists.
I closed out the day at an adult acting class at La Sala Ross. I learned SO much. Stole every activity of course. And I practically prostituted myself for friends, lol. I think it went well.
Today I went to another asado at the house of my reference's parents. Juan, Adriana's 9-year-old nephew, wowed us with jokes, inspiring me to stumblethrough a translating a knock-knock joke. I spent the rest of the afternoon pushing all of my worries on my sister Sheeva. She helped me, and now I'm feeling less confused, and more thoughtful. I'm in Argentina. For reals. Damn
miércoles, 25 de marzo de 2009
The decision to stay
After a day of overanalyzing, over-stressing and taking a small pressure beating to take my apartment from a few lovely Argentinean real estate agents/adopted aunts, I think I've decided to stay at my reference's house outside of the city. All it took was a little perspective. I've been whoring my name and credentials all over this city for the past few days, and finally today my reference had the time to pull me in a little. She explained that it was her hope that I would focus my interests in teaching, sharing my culture, English, theater and Tucuman culture into helping the Ministry of Education to teach some theater techniques to English teachers in country schools. She reminded me of how much time I would teaching, preparing lesson plans, and how I could use my overflowing confusion of interests to make a legit difference here. It was like I could finally take a comfortable breath. Duh.
I like feeling the ground beneath me now :)
I'm also really excited about another opportunity that my reference Adriana has helped me describe. Nothing is certain yet, but I think I may be able to put together a project that brings theater to Tucuman province's indigenous populations. The idea feels like a dream, but it could actually come happen! Adriana works with a foundation that is trying to bring Internet access to indigenous populations, and to maintain these populations' language. I told her that I would love to accompany her, and perhaps develop an article or play out of my experience. She suggested that I actually work with them...and I think the giddiness actually oozed from me. How cool does this sound? Cool, right? I'm writing this here to commit to it. "Speak it into existence," my North Carolina adopted grandma said last year. So here it goes. Big project. But I should go for it, right? Por que no!
I like feeling the ground beneath me now :)
I'm also really excited about another opportunity that my reference Adriana has helped me describe. Nothing is certain yet, but I think I may be able to put together a project that brings theater to Tucuman province's indigenous populations. The idea feels like a dream, but it could actually come happen! Adriana works with a foundation that is trying to bring Internet access to indigenous populations, and to maintain these populations' language. I told her that I would love to accompany her, and perhaps develop an article or play out of my experience. She suggested that I actually work with them...and I think the giddiness actually oozed from me. How cool does this sound? Cool, right? I'm writing this here to commit to it. "Speak it into existence," my North Carolina adopted grandma said last year. So here it goes. Big project. But I should go for it, right? Por que no!
martes, 24 de marzo de 2009
In memory of the disappeared
Today was a day of remembrance for the people who disappeared during The Dirty War. There was a small, but dedicated, protest of people demanding...well, demanding notice. H.I.J.O.S. de Tucuman, and the Communist party were there. They played drums, and chanted for further recognition from the current government. I can't imagine the suffering this country has faced.
And I spend all day worrying about finding an apartment. (After seeing two more today, I'm feeling even better about the single room by the park, btw) Today I want to remind myself to be more thankful for every tiny detail of my life. My nose, unclogged and steadily taking breath in. My body tired, but with the understanding that it will have a place to rest that night. My head, entertained constantly by an unending playlist of movie scenes, songs and memories.
I'm finally away from the hostel, safe in a room in the house of my reference here. I think I take safety for granted too much.
And I spend all day worrying about finding an apartment. (After seeing two more today, I'm feeling even better about the single room by the park, btw) Today I want to remind myself to be more thankful for every tiny detail of my life. My nose, unclogged and steadily taking breath in. My body tired, but with the understanding that it will have a place to rest that night. My head, entertained constantly by an unending playlist of movie scenes, songs and memories.
I'm finally away from the hostel, safe in a room in the house of my reference here. I think I take safety for granted too much.
lunes, 23 de marzo de 2009
Bug Bites, and old souls
I am COVERED with tiny bumps. Some are red, bloody and agitated. Others are simply pods of itchiness. I would be annoyed by this, but they actually led to my first Argentinian hook up. WOOT! In the hostel. With the door open. A tourist from the UK. HELL. YES! Yay, for embracing my inner slut (Yep, I was totally the pursuer on this one. Let's just say it involved bug spray)
The day started with a downpour. Not to make the earth's weather patterns entirely about me, but it was as if all the stress of my stolen camera, my homelessness and sweaty solitude was washing away a bit. It has been so hot here. A little alienating, often wonderful, and very stressful. I woke up with a smile, satisfied, and with my first appointments to visit apartments.
I think I found the one. A lady I befriended at a Bolero concert last week set it up. It's a one bedroom apartment right in the center of the city, and it has a balcony. It is heaven, especially after the student apartment I visited this morning. I'm all for embracing the potential grit of this experience, but cement rooms with one table the size of my journal, a bathroom straight out of a community pool and an ice cream salesman's freezer to be shared by four people might be pushing my limits a little fast. I was further seduced into this apartment by my charming new community of local mothers. Victoria (my amiga from the concert) and her friend Eddie convinced the attendants to lower the price by almost $70 bucks a months, include all utilities, and leave me a bed (which is set up with an extra bed underneath it FOR VISITORS!!) They then treated me to nearly three hours of cafe, delicious tamales and more compliments than I've received in a long time. Eddie smiled the moment we met, and held the smile the entire afternoon. Asked about my interest in theater, I explained how I use movies and plays to connect better to people. I preached the importance of art to force people to confront the lives of others, to be compassionate, and to learn from taking two hours to focus closely on the one person's interactions with the world and its circumstances. (You agree with this?) She told me I had an old soul.
Victoria and Eddie believe that we were meant to meet. They both believe in living to follow a path. They believe that they are counselors for the soul, and immerse themselves in romance, helping others, and strengthening friendships. They think I meant for something to do something important. I think I'm really lucky sometimes :^) I also think I should be better about reminding people of their values and abilities. Support can be so healing. Is there anything I can do for any of you? Write me if you haven't been complimented enough lately. I think you're all so incredible, and have hundreds of compliments to share.
The day started with a downpour. Not to make the earth's weather patterns entirely about me, but it was as if all the stress of my stolen camera, my homelessness and sweaty solitude was washing away a bit. It has been so hot here. A little alienating, often wonderful, and very stressful. I woke up with a smile, satisfied, and with my first appointments to visit apartments.
I think I found the one. A lady I befriended at a Bolero concert last week set it up. It's a one bedroom apartment right in the center of the city, and it has a balcony. It is heaven, especially after the student apartment I visited this morning. I'm all for embracing the potential grit of this experience, but cement rooms with one table the size of my journal, a bathroom straight out of a community pool and an ice cream salesman's freezer to be shared by four people might be pushing my limits a little fast. I was further seduced into this apartment by my charming new community of local mothers. Victoria (my amiga from the concert) and her friend Eddie convinced the attendants to lower the price by almost $70 bucks a months, include all utilities, and leave me a bed (which is set up with an extra bed underneath it FOR VISITORS!!) They then treated me to nearly three hours of cafe, delicious tamales and more compliments than I've received in a long time. Eddie smiled the moment we met, and held the smile the entire afternoon. Asked about my interest in theater, I explained how I use movies and plays to connect better to people. I preached the importance of art to force people to confront the lives of others, to be compassionate, and to learn from taking two hours to focus closely on the one person's interactions with the world and its circumstances. (You agree with this?) She told me I had an old soul.
Victoria and Eddie believe that we were meant to meet. They both believe in living to follow a path. They believe that they are counselors for the soul, and immerse themselves in romance, helping others, and strengthening friendships. They think I meant for something to do something important. I think I'm really lucky sometimes :^) I also think I should be better about reminding people of their values and abilities. Support can be so healing. Is there anything I can do for any of you? Write me if you haven't been complimented enough lately. I think you're all so incredible, and have hundreds of compliments to share.
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